The best place to stop running the tile is under the door. From the bathroom side, you want to see tile disappear under the door, from the hallway side, you don't want to see tile if the hallway is hardwood or carpet.
Start your layout by snapping a chalkline across the doorway (1), midway underneath the closed door. Snap a second line perpendicular to the first (2), centered in the jamb. Now dry-lay a row of tiles along the edge of the perpendicular line (with spacers, as necessary) from the first line to the opposite wall.
“Center and balance areas of tile, if possible.”
This language directs the installer to provide a layout where the tile on the left is the same size of the cut on the right. Similarly, the cuts at the bottom of the installation should be the same size as the cuts at the top. This sounds simple and it should be.
If you really want to get the job done in a professional manner, we strongly recommend you to cut the door jamb and to fit the tiles under. In this manner, you will get a continuous tile surface and the end result will be stunning.
Using caulk, trim tile pieces and edging are three of the most popular and effective ways to finish tile edges. Caulking is the cheapest and easiest method for finishing tile edges.
Use a tape measure to measure the portion between the two door jambs (i.e., the parts of the door frame that stop the door from closing beyond 180 degrees). Install the transition strip in this area so that it won't interfere with the opening and closing of your door.
It's always advisable to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it's easier to make sure your pattern is symmetrical. It also means any half-tiles you may need can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size.
Regardless of the size of tile you choose to you, installing it diagonally will give your room a larger appearance. The third way of making your room look larger combines both techniques described above with relationship to size and layout.
It's best to start from the middle of the wall and work outwards. When marking the wall with your tape measure and pencil, make sure you use your spirit level to ensure all of the markings are level. At the end of this, you should have the position of all your tiles marked out on your bathroom wall.
You may have been told that you need to have a transition strip at your doorways, but in many cases they're not necessary! Glued or stapled floors never require a break, and floating floors only need one if the span of your room is wider than 80' x 160'.
Transitions should fall directly under the door when closed, so when the door is closed it is hidden. Most jobs require installing the floor while doors are hung and we use a door jamb saw to make the cut.
When should you use a transition strip? If the flooring is going from carpet to tile, tile to wood flooring, etc., you should use a transition strip as it helps to join the two different floorings together and make a safer transition.
The depth of a trim should match the depth of the tile. Whilst it seems obvious not to have a 10mm depth trim with a 6mm depth tile this is one of the most common mistakes made when choosing trim. Keeping the trim and tile flush creates the professional look that you will be hoping to achieve.
It's important not to skip installing tile trims in favor of less working time or money spent. Tile trims provide a finishing touch and make tile last longer. The only time tile trim may not be needed is when the tile meets flush against other surfaces like wall corners or floor edges.
In terms of how high your kitchen backsplash should be, that's up to you. Many homeowners stop their backsplash level with the bottom of their upper cabinets. However, some choose to take the tile all the way up the ceiling. This can make the kitchen feel taller, drawing the eye up the wall.
A well fitted door should have a 2mm gap on either side and at the top. The gap at the bottom will depend on the thickness of your flooring/carpet.
In general, the gap beneath an interior door will be between three-quarters of an inch and half an inch. This width depends largely on the type of flooring, as door frames are generally installed when the floor is unfinished. A standard door can have varying levels of clearance over different flooring types.
Building materials experience the same expansion and contraction. Depending on the materials your door, door frame, and the surrounding wall are made of, temperatures can cause their size to fluctuate at different rates. This can be the cause behind a door frame separating from a wall.
The current standard (i.e. NFPA 80) prescribes that the bottom gap be no larger than 3/4 in. (19.05 mm), and the side and top gaps be no larger than 1/8 in. (3.175 mm) — with an additional 1/16 in.