Larger pots are required for growing larger plants that have more leaves and roots. Pots of the same size can be used for about two years, and then, they have to be replaced with pots that are 1 inch larger in diameter when the orchids are repotted, which should be done once every one to three years.
Most orchids require a 4, 5 or 6 inch pot. There are seedlings and miniatures that require smaller pots, older specimen plants and some genera (Cymbidium, Phaius, large Cattleya...) that often require 8 inch pots or bigger but the majority of orchids sold in groceries, box stores, florists and the like are not these.
Soil that is not replaced can retain more water, leading to root rot and leaving your orchid vulnerable to fungal diseases. Your orchid's roots are soft and brown. If you truly waited too long to repot, you'll notice that your orchid is holding too much water. The roots will appear brown and feel soft to the touch.
Most orchids will have aerial roots reaching out into the air, rather than digging down into the potting media. These roots are looking for a tree branch to attach to. These roots absorb moisture from the air. Do not trim off these wandering roots, just let them do their thing.
With proper drainage, Phalaenopsis orchids will thrive in nearly any container; but plastic and clay pots are most common. Here's how the two stack up: Plastic pots are cheap, light, and available in multiple sizes and colors. Many people prefer plastic over clay pots because they offer better water retention.
Like Goldilocks, orchids like things “just right.” While orchids love being a little crowded in their pots, every year or two it's time to re-pot. Just as an orchid won't perform at its best if its pot is overcrowded, a too-large pot will also inhibit flowering.
You may also want to mist the orchid with a spray bottle daily. Misting gives the orchid more humidity but does not create a soggy root environment. It is best to put your orchid where it will receive medium indirect sunlight.
Clear pots promote root photosynthesis and healthy growing, benefitting from light getting directly into your orchid root systems. The filtered light gets into the root ball, cleverly simulating natural growing conditions.
Set your orchids on top of the pebbles and fill the tray with water, making sure water doesn't touch the bottom of the pots. As the water evaporates, it will humidify the air right around the plant.
The blooming period could last around 8-16 weeks (two to four months) long. Such plenty of time to enjoy the most spectacular flowers it produces. Reblooming could happen again in the same year if the plant receives proper care.
Orchids do quite well in water, as long as they're given the proper care. It may even be easier to grow orchids in water for some, as you don't have to worry about soil maintenance and watering.
Watering at night: No matter what kind of orchid you grow, always water in the morning. Always. Nighttime watering allows water to stagnate in the growing tips of phalaenopsis orchids or the flower sheaths of Cattleyas. This encourages bacterial and fungal diseases.
So how do you water orchids? The easiest way is to soak your orchid in a bowl of water once every week or two --- when the moss dries out. Unlike most houseplants, you don't need to keep orchid moss evenly moist; if it stays too moist, the orchid can rot.
The ideal spot for growing orchids is either south or east-facing windows. Usually west windows are too hot while northern windows are too dark. Placing orchids under artificial lights is the last resort if you can't find a good location to grow your orchids.
Orchids thrive in the sunshine, and the living room tends to get the most sunlight in your home. Indirect sunlight is best. So one of the best places to keep your orchid is near a north- or east-facing window.
Orchids require different light then normal house plants. They do not require the kind of bright direct sunshine that, let's say, a tomato plant does. Orchids do well with indirect morning or evening sun but never direct hot sun in the middle of the day.
After you have re-potted your orchid, it should be watered thoroughly. For the first couple of weeks af- ter repotting, fertilize when watering with Better-Gro® Better-Bloom® Orchid Fertilizer, which is high in phosphorus and will stimulate root growth.
Hold the orchid in the center and carefully place the new potting medium around the roots. Keep the air roots out of the new soil. It's okay if one or two of them end up covered, though.
If you are using a potting mixture that consists of bark, you will need to soak the medium overnight. Since bark mixtures do not retain water well, this is an important step to ensuring your orchid receives the proper amount of water after repotting.
As orchids live in the tropics and are known as tropical plants, they thrive on high humidity. You place your plant in the glass container with the roots touching the water. Of course, the container opening must be wide, allowing enough airflow into and out of the vessel.
You should remove these roots before returning your plant to its pot. With your sanitized shears, trim dead roots about an inch above the point where they have begun to die. This trimming gives the plant a chance to regrow healthier roots once replanted. Dead orchid roots might appear in a few different ways.
While each growing environment is unique, and watering habits vary from person to person, it is generally a good idea to water about once per 7-10 days, when the mix gets dry. Too much watering leads to root rot, crown rot and other over watering problems like fungus gnat infestations.
With no roots, the water will seep into the crown, leaves, and stem, and after a week, you'll have a rotting orchid for sure. 8)You don't need to Ziploc the bag shut, but you do need to minimize the air exit.