Yes, you can absolutely grow agapanthus from seed heads, which is a rewarding way to get new plants, though they take a few years to flower and the resulting plants might differ from the parent. Collect seeds from dried, brown seed pods in autumn, sow them in a well-draining mix, cover lightly, keep moist, and provide good light; they'll need patience but are easy to propagate.
Place the seed in open paper (not polythene) bags until it has dried and then store, now in sealed bags, in a cool, dry place until March or April. Space sow the sound seed on the surface of a gritty compost and cover with a thin layer of grit of more compost.
Agapanthus can also be propagated from seed, however the resulting plants will be different from their parents.
Agapanthus are easy to grow from seed and you may get flowering plants in as little as two years. Collect seed when the seedhead is becoming brown and the capsules are starting to burst.
Allow a few faded flowers to form seed pods in autumn to prolong interest and cut back to base when they have gone over.
One of the most common questions gardeners ask about growing agapanthus, is whether they should be cut back after flowering. The answer is a resounding yes. Pruning agapanthus dead heads at the base after they've flowered helps promote healthier plants and more abundant future blooms.
Put harvested seed pods in a paper bag in a warm location and leave them until the pods open. In spring, plant them in a pot or flat with drainage holes. Use a rich planting mix with added perlite for drainage. Sprinkle the seeds on the planting mix and cover them with only 1/4 inch of the soil.
Agapanthus plants thrive in well-drained soils, preferring full sun but also tolerating partial shade. Their resilience against drought, once established, further enhances their appeal.
Do not plant agapanthus in shady spots or areas with poor drainage, as they need full sun and well-drained soil to flower well and avoid root rot; also avoid planting near bushland or sensitive ecosystems due to their invasive potential, opting for sterile varieties or containers if concerned about spread.
Bulb rot and root rot are both agapanthus problems that start underground. They show themselves above ground in yellow, wilted leaves and sometimes stunted plants. If you dig the plants up, you'll find the roots or bulb decayed and discolored. If one of your plants is infected with root or bulb rot, it can't be saved.
Agapanthus planting is best performed in the fall or winter in warm climates, and in the spring after the danger of frost has passed in cool climates. The ravishing, spherical flower clusters will arrive in early to mid-summer.
Cut the stems down a bit and stack somewhere dry and warm. If I am doing this just for myself I often just put the stems in a large vase. Leave for a couple of weeks until it is easy to peel back the outer casings from the top. Carefully remove both sides from the seed casing and brush off the seeds.
Use a loam based compost like John Innes No3 with slow release Miracle Grow granules added for long term feed. Liquid feed with Miracle Grow All Purpose Feed or Phostrogen during the growing season. Overcrowded plants should be re-potted in spring. Feeding - Agapanthus are quite hungry feeders.
Most authorities confirm that agapanthus is very difficult to get rid of, even with powerful sprays. Common recommendations are for glyphosate, metsulfuron-methyl (MSF600) and triclopyr (Triclo). Our experience is that they all will work, but that glyphosate and MSF600 are more effective at some times than at others.
Agapanthus do well in both pots and the ground, with the best choice depending on your goals: pots offer control for limited space, frost protection (by moving indoors), and preventing spread, while the ground allows them to naturalize and form large clumps for a bigger impact, though they need more effort to manage if they become invasive. Pots are great for patios, balconies, and colder climates, while in-ground planting suits sunny garden beds.
Lifespan of the Agapanthus
A perennial plant grows more than once during its lifetime and lasts longer than 2 years. These are plants that produce new stems, leaves, and flowers every year. Give your Agapanthus the best care, and you will enjoy it for years to come!
Salvia, mums, asters, sedum, and ornamental grasses are great for extending the blooming season of any border well into the fall and pair well with Agapanthus.
Agapanthus seed propagation isn't difficult, but keep in mind that the plants likely won't produce blooms for at least two or three years. If this sounds like the way to go, read on to learn about propagating agapanthus by seed, step by step.
Without deadheading, the plant goes to seed and the blooming season is shortened considerably. To deadhead agapanthus, simply use pruners or garden shears to remove the faded flower and the stalk at the base of the plant. Note: Agapanthus can become weedy and is considered invasive in some areas.
Collecting seeds with unstable genes
This is why it's wise to avoid saving seeds from hybrid varieties, regardless of how much you loved the crop. Open pollinated varieties of many crops can cross with one another, too, so it's important to isolate plants from which you plan to collect seeds.
Seeds are meant to germinate when they're moist, and hibernate when they're dry. That's why it's important to dry your seeds after you harvest them. Open-air drying is the best way, and there are several methods for creating just the right conditions for perfect seed drying, using ordinary household items.
Jame's Rule: Ideal storage conditions require that the temperature (°F) plus the ambient RH (%) remain below 100. For example, at 50% RH, the storage temperature should be below 50 °F (10 °C) to achieve medium-term seed storage.