Gravel alone does not allow chickens to forage or dust bathe – two of their essential welfare needs. Again, adding top soil can help.
Some chicken owners say that their chickens don't like walking on small gravel, but it is a longer lasting option to hardwood or shavings so can be very cost effective.
Ground cover within the coop can be anything from wood chips, straw and grass to bare ground. Organic materials tend to break down quickly and plain sand is a popular choice for its durability. Whatever you choose, make sure the chickens may easily scratch and dig.
Concrete is the ideal surface for a permanent chicken coop. It provides a heavy, solid barrier that prevents predators from digging their way into the coop. Concrete is also easy to clean with a hose and water.
There are two types of poultry grit: oystershell grit and flint grit. Oystershell grit is a type of calcium that helps make eggshells stronger. Insoluble grit, also known as flint grit, helps chickens with digestion.
A rounded gravel such as pea gravel can be used, but we wouldn't recommend using weed membrane underneath. Droppings will be washed through to the bottom by the rain or trampled in which can become quite smelly; it is far better to allow water free drainage through to the soil below.
It's best to buy pea gravel rather than the standard builder's gravel. It's smaller, more rounded and therefore softer to walk on and kinder to feet.
Why you will love a concrete coop floor. Most chicken keepers who have concrete love their concrete. Concrete is a very safe flooring choice as it keeps burrowing predators out. After the initial installation, concrete is low maintenance, does not rot like wood floors, and can take plenty of abuse without consequence.
Most chickens prefer to sleep on a roost rather than on the floor or in a nesting box. And trying to do the right thing, many backyard chicken keepers provide roosts in the form of broom handles or round bars.
Pine shavings are a very good litter choice, but scientific research and personal experience have proven that sand is even better! Litter's primary functions in backyard coops are to keep the coop dry and facilitate cleaning, the most common materials being soft wood shavings, chopped straw and sand.
To ensure that snakes and other predators cannot break into a coop from underneath, it's important that the coop is raised off the ground 8 to 12 inches—enough to allow the chickens to walk beneath.
A coop off the ground has increased air circulation underneath it. Not only does this help to keep the floor dry, but it may also help to regulate the temperature within the coop. The increase of airflow in the summer may help to keep the coop floor cooler.
Not all chicken coops need floors, particularly those that use the deep litter method, have soil that drains well, and are well-designed to keep out predators. However, many coops without floors allow easy access for rodents and burrowing predators, are difficult to clean, and add too much moisture to the coop.
As they forage, chickens naturally consume small pieces of rock, grit and/or gravel, and those pieces pass through their digestive system and lodge in their gizzard, where they chew up the seeds, grains, bugs, and grasses that they eat. The grit grinds their food the way molars grind our food.
Chickens don't have teeth. But they do have a gizzard. A gizzard is an organ found in the digestive tract of chickens that helps them to grind up food. All breeds of chickens need access to grit daily; it's an essential part of their diet and overall health.
Here the insoluble grit helps to grind up the fibres in vegetation and breaks down the hard husks of grains and seeds that your hen might eat. This grinding processes the food into a form that allows the nutrients to be worked on by digestive enzymes and absorbed into the bloodstream.
? Should chickens go out in the rain? Chicken feathers are somewhat waterproof, so letting them out is fine. Letting your birds out prevents overcrowding, boredom and the diseases that go along with a wet chicken coop.
Shelter from the weather is one of the most important things to provide for your chickens in winter. A combination of natural shelter (e.g. vegetation) and artificial shelter (e.g. the coop) will help to ensure your chickens feel safe and give them somewhere to stay warm during windy or rainy weather.
Backyard chickens don't need to free range to be happy, healthy and productive. There are plenty of situations in which free ranging isn't practical. Predators, limited space or intolerant landscaping are all good reasons to keep the birds in their enclosed run.
Many people have a grass or dirt run for their chickens. This can quickly turn into mud. We use a combination of pea rock and gravel for the floor of our runs. You can have gravel and pea rock delivered to your home from landscaping companies.
Fresh grass or lawn clippings can substitute chicken feed for up to 20 percent of the chicken's diet. Fresh grass also contains bugs which are a high-protein food for your flock. The grass is high in protein, iron and Vitamin C.
Cramped cages prevent many natural behaviors such as nesting, perching and dust-bathing. Caged hens may experience increased aggression. Caged hens experience reduced bone strength, impaired foot conditions and higher feather loss.
Some Sand Will Work
However, sand is often not a chicken's chosen litter for dust bathing, so you will want to mix in some additional dirt with the sand. Sand can help with exfoliating and removing excess oils, but dirt works better at suffocating and killing external parasites.
Chickens need a varied diet in order to live long, healthy, productive lives. They are not merely egg vending machines, but living, breathing, odd, cooky creatures and natural foragers that love and benefit from grass and fresh air just as much as their keepers.