To tell if a pearl necklace is real, check for a gritty texture (tooth test), cool temperature, and natural irregularities; real pearls feel gritty, cool to the touch, and have subtle surface flaws and deep luster, while fakes are smooth, warm, perfectly uniform, and often lighter. Inspect the drill holes for crisp edges with nacre layers, and look for subtle color overtones, as fake pearls often have uniform, artificial shine or rough holes.
Generally, the larger, rounder, more lustrous the pearls are, and the less blemishes the pearls have, the more valuable and expensive. The only way to confidently confirm if the pearls are freshwater or saltwater would be to use X-ray techniques to determine it's chemical composition and internal structure.
In water, pearls do not float.
Microscopic Analysis. A jeweler may also use a microscope to examine the pearl's surface and internal structure. Under magnification, the natural crystalline structure of nacre is visible in real pearls, while fake pearls will lack this texture.
This is not a foolproof test because good fake pearl necklaces will have knots. Just know that real pearls will never be strung without knots.
Real pearl necklace prices vary wildly, from under $100 for basic freshwater strands to tens of thousands for rare, high-quality South Sea or Akoya pearls, depending heavily on pearl type (Freshwater, Akoya, Tahitian, South Sea), size, luster, shape (round is pricier), color, and quality (AAA+ vs. lower grades). Expect budget options around $100-$300 (freshwater), mid-range at $300-$2,500 (Akoya, good Tahitian), and fine quality (South Sea, Hanadama Akoya) from several thousand to over $10,000.
An easy and old method to identify a real pearl is to use the “tooth-test.” Put the pearls up against your mouth and rub the pearls over the bottom edge of your tooth. A real pearl will have a light grit to it. A pearl made of plastic or glass will feel smooth.
The most expensive pearl colors are often deep, rich hues like Golden South Sea (especially 24k deep gold), rare Peacock Tahitian (dark green/blue/purple overtones), and intensely pink or pink-overtoned White South Sea pearls, with value heavily depending on rarity, luster, size, and lack of blemishes, rather than just the base color itself. While white and black are common, specific, saturated, and rare overtones within these categories command the highest prices.
How To Tell If Pearls Are Real
Most real pearls feel somewhat heavy for their size, while fakes (especially plastic pearls) will have a light, insubstantial feel.
Rub the pearls to check surface feel
Both natural and cultured pearls have textured surface due to their layered nacre structure. So when you rub the pearls lightly against each other or on your front teeth, they feel a little gritty. Fake or imitation pearls, however, usually feel smooth or glassy.
Check the Clasp: A real pearl necklace will have a sturdy clasp that is securely attached to the necklace. High-quality clasps are often made from precious metals and are designed to last.
Pearls go yellow when they dehydrate. After all, pearls are formed in oysters or mussels and originate in either fresh or saltwater depending on the type of pearl. As such, yellowed pearls occur more frequently if you allow your pearls to dehydrate.
There are several things you can look for at home to get a good start:
Generally, you can expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $200 for a professional appraisal. Insurance appraisals are generally more expensive because they must be done by a certified gemologist and include a more detailed report.
Look for tiny irregularities
When you examine real pearls closely or under magnification, you'll notice tiny irregularities and ridges on each pearl's surface. In a strand of cultured pearls, you can always see very tiny differences between them, even when they are top quality and well matched.
Wearing pearls symbolizes purity, wisdom, and transformation, with meanings shifting by color and culture, representing innocence for white pearls, wealth for black, and love for pink, often signifying new beginnings (weddings), inner strength, or status, while also embodying resilience and feminine grace. They're seen as meaningful gifts, reflecting enduring love and loyalty, and are linked to the divine feminine and inner growth.
Surface Check – Look closely for blemishes, spots, or bumps; the fewer you see, the higher the quality. Shape – Perfectly round pearls are the rarest and most valuable; off-round or baroque shapes are more common. Matched tear-drop shapes (especially in rarer pearl types like South Sea) also fetch a premium.
For example, if you have an antique pearl necklace, then you'll want to find a GIA-certified appraiser who specializes in pearls and/or antique jewelry. To search for reputable appraisers in your local area, you can visit the American Gem Society's website.
The most expensive pearl colors are often deep, rich hues like Golden South Sea (especially 24k deep gold), rare Peacock Tahitian (dark green/blue/purple overtones), and intensely pink or pink-overtoned White South Sea pearls, with value heavily depending on rarity, luster, size, and lack of blemishes, rather than just the base color itself. While white and black are common, specific, saturated, and rare overtones within these categories command the highest prices.
It was Jackie Kennedy who said 'pearls are always appropriate,' meaning that they suit all occasions and all outfits. Indeed pearls are still worn by many brides on their wedding days and feature in most jewellers' windows today.
Texture: Real pearls have tiny bumps, divots and organic individuality. Shape: If it looks too perfectly round, it might be fake. Knots between beads: Higher-quality strands are hand-knotted between pearls.