It's no secret that physical activity and it's stimulation of the amygdala and the hippocampus in the brain have a positive impact on stress levels, which probably explains why most surfers are pretty chill (not all, but most..).
It concluded that surfers "describe the surfing sensation as a hybrid of meditative and athletic experience. Numerous empirical studies link both meditative experience and exercise with reduced incidence of depression and anxiety; this potentially suggests that surfers may endorse fewer symptoms of either disorder."
The same happens when you surf – the brain gets a good shot of some cool chemicals. This cocktail of chemicals helps you stay focused. Not only that, but it also makes you feel happy. Therefore, it is safe to say that surfing is a strong mood enhancer.
There is mounting evidence that surfing does, in fact, make you happier. Most recently, in December of 2022 a study was released in the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health that showed a positive relationship between surfing and mental well-being.
The Surfer Mentality is a simple, powerful application of this metaphor: When a surfer gets up on a wave, they enjoy the present moment, even though they know with certainty that the wave will eventually end. They fully enjoy THIS wave, with the wisdom and awareness that there are always more waves coming.
The endorphins, adrenalin and serotonin we receive from surfing combined with the dopamine from the unexpected reward of waves make surfers not only feel good, but wanting more. The fact is, if we're not surfing, we're thinking about surfing, and that's just in our nature.
Benefits of Surf Therapy for People Living with Disability
Research has shown Surf Therapy can have huge benefits for people living with a disability, such as Autism Spectrum Disorder (ASD), Down Syndrome, Global Developmental Delay, and Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Disorder (ADHD).
SURFING ADDICTION IS ALL ABOUT BRAIN CHEMISTRY
The gorgeous outdoor setting paired with anticipation of catching the perfect wave and the reward that comes when you do it all work together to release the brain's “feel good” chemicals. This results in you experiencing a flood of dopamine, serotonin, and endorphins.
Paddling out
Many people will tell you that this is the hardest part of surfing. Depending on the conditions, paddling out can either be a walk in the park or it can feel like the most intense workout you've ever done.
GLOWING SURFER SKIN
The circulation health benefits of surfing already contribute to naturally glowing skin, but so does the salt water and natural elements exposure too. That's why surfers always look so hot!
Elevated levels of ABRs on the skin lasted for six hours post-swim, according to the study To reduce the risk of skin infections, it's best to shower shortly after you've been in the ocean. Much like with showering post-workout, a shower after the ocean washes away bacterium.
This hostile behavior, commonly referred to as surf localism, is an attempt to deter outsiders from enjoying coveted and choice waves.
The most common surf fear is that of wave height. Many fear to ride big waves for three commonly cited reasons: the wipeout from the top of a giant wall of water; the chance of hitting a reef or a rocky bottom; and drowning, or the loss of breath.
There is no specific term for a female surfer. You can call a girl who surfs just "surfer", although, there are terms like gurfer, wahine that are used to refer to a female surfer.
Surfer girls are connected to nature.
This means they have perspective and respect for the elements. Understanding the majesty and inexorable power of the ocean makes a person humble, even if they don't show it. The beach is a playground and surfer girls love it as much as anyone.
The practice of surfing itself doesn't affect the environment negatively, but it can be considered a very selfish pursuit once other factors of consumption and production associated with the surfing industry are considered.
Just like any non-impact sport, there is no age limit for surfing. Boys and girls start surfing as early as 3 years old and famous old surfers like Woody Brown and John H. "Doc" Ball were still paddling into waves well into their late 80s.
Evidence showing the mental health benefits of surfing ranges from improving self-esteem and reducing social isolation to treating depression and other mental disorders. Such evidence mainly comes from specific surf therapy programs.
“Basketball, hockey and soccer are sports where the athletes are almost always moving and there's very little idle time,” Dr. Pollack explains. “That constant motion provides a good outlet for the athletes to use their energy, and having less idle team means they are less likely to become distracted.”
Terry Bradshaw
“I truly wish I had been tested [for ADHD] when I was a child so I might have been able to reach my potential academically,” he wrote. “But I wasn't tested, I struggled, and in football I found my answers.”
The adrenaline rush of surfing a wave is an indescribable sensation that captivates those who are able to experience it. However, this adrenaline rush is not the only benefit that surfing can provide us with every time we surf.
Surfers Tend to Develop More Wrinkles
But it's not just the amount of time that surfers spend in the sun that makes them more prone to wrinkles. It's also a fact that many surfers don't take adequate precautions to protect their skin from the sun.
Since beginner surfers tend to ride straight down toward the beach, they tend to ride parallel to each other so they're are unlikely to hit each other.
Rolling waves (1) are the most familiar waves, and the type most surfers prefer. These waves break in a stable pattern. Rolling waves are usually a feature of a flat, sandy shoreline. The rolling waves at Hossegor, France, on the Bay of Biscay, can reach more than 6 meters (20 feet).