Use a
Cross stitch, also known as the catch stitch, is a hand sewing technique typically used for hemming garments or tacking interfacing and other fabrics to one another.
Set the machine for a 3.5 mm stitch length. Topstitch around the hem 1/2" from the fold. Stitch slowly to avoid breaking the thread or needle. If necessary, turn the hand wheel manually to ease the stitching over the fabric bulk at the leg seams.
Most sewing is done in the 2.0 to 2.5 range. If you are foundation paper piecing, you may want to decrease your stitch length so that the paper tears away easier. Top stitching and quilting are usually done in the 3.0 to 3.5 range. Basting and gathering stitches are the longest, from 4.0 – 5.0.
For piecing, 2.0 mm or about 13 stitches-per-inch is preferred. The default stitch length (what the machine automatically sets to) is usually longer than 2.0 mm. I recommend that quilters reset it to 2.0 mm for piecing, or to about 13 stitches-per-inch. Stitch length of 2.0 mm is perfect for piecing.
Standard stitch length: Refers to a 2.5 mm stitch length. Commonly used for regular seams when assembling two pieces of fabric.
What is a standard stitch length? Most sewing machines have a default stitch length set between 2.0mm and 2.5mm.
They refer to the length of each stitch. If the setting is 2.5, it means that every stitch is 2.5 millimeters long.
The Basting Stitch
This stitch is just the running stitch but longer. Instead of making your stitches a centimeter apart, make them ¼ inch to ½ inch apart from each other. The basting stitch will go even faster than the running stitch once you get into a flow.
While a patient may feel that one or two stitches are all that's needed, 10 or more may in fact be required to close their skin.
The backstitch is one of the strongest, most adaptable, and permanent hand stitches. It's also a bulk-free knot replacement for the beginnings and endings of hand-sewn seams.
If you're sewing with lightweight cotton, like cotton lawn or voile, try a stitch length between 1.5 – 2.5mm. If you're sewing with thick cotton, like denim, try a stitch length between 2.5 – 4mm.
The running stitch is the most basic and most commonly used stitch, in which the needle and thread simply pass over and under two pieces of fabric.
Stitching 2 over 2 means to stitch with 2 strands of embroidery floss over 2 threads in the fabric. Simularly when a pattern says “stitch 3 over 2” it means to stitch with 3 strands of embroidery floss over 2 threads in the fabric.
To quickly hem a thick piece of fabric or to join two pieces of fabric together, the whip stitch is your best bet. Unlike the running stitch or back stitch, the whip stitch goes right over the edge of the fabric so can seal in loose fibers.
Preparing the Hem
Fold up the hem on the marked line, placing pins at right angles to the edge every 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm). Baste close to the fold. Try on the garment to check that the length is correct and that the hemline is level all around. Clip the basting, repin, and adjust as necessary.
Use lower heat settings—like permanent press—on automatic dryers. Do not allow the fabrics to dry completely. Remove clothes while still slightly damp to avoid over drying that can cause shrinkage that leads to curling. Skip the dryer completely and allow laundry to air dry.
And a few disadvantages of the straight stitch: it has no stretch which means it will snap when used on stretch fabric (not when you are sewing, but when the fabric is stretched to be worn); a longer straight stitch can have a little bit of give but is still not the perfect choice for stretch fabric.