Less than 1% of turbos fail because of manufacturing defects. Most failures are caused by the three 'turbo killers' of oil starvation, oil contamination and foreign object damage. More than 90% of turbocharger failures are caused oil related either by oil starvation or oil contamination.
Turbochargers are poorly lubricated and cooled. Idle mode for just 20 minutes is sufficient to be harmful to a turbocharger, not only when running-in, but also in the course of normal operation.
Neglecting the engine air filter in a turbocharged vehicle could result in catastrophic failure of the turbocharger system. This failure could happen as a result of foreign object damage or extreme heat – both of which would likely involve a severely clogged engine air filter.
Pushing the turbo to ever higher speeds, especially when making modifications to the engine, will take it beyond normal operating speeds and can cause damage. Components will be stressed more than the manufacturer originally intended and the components will fail over time.
Let the car idle for 30 (minimum) - 60 (maximum) seconds before you drive off. Use this handful of seconds to set the right playlist, climate control, mirrors and seat position. Be gentle to your car when she's cold. Maintain a low rpm level (below 2,000) until the engine has reached operating temperature.
Of course, the answer depends on how the truck is used, how the engine is maintained, and whether or not the engine is operating correctly, but a turbocharger on a diesel engine will usually last for at least 150,000 miles, but more often than not, the average turbo will still be functioning correctly at 200,000 miles, ...
Turbos are designed to last the lifetime of the vehicle (or around 150,000 miles); however, it's possible for them to wear out over time depending on how hard you drive the car and the original build quality of the turbo.
It depends on the type of maintenance. Turbocharged engines will require more frequent oil changes and fresh spark plugs, though turbo engines typically don't require additional service compared to naturally aspirated engines.
Idling the engine cools the turbo because it circulates the oil, yet does not make the turbo "work." The amount of cooling it needs is directly related to the way you just finished driving it. When you drive it gently around town, 15 seconds should be more than adequate.
If you drive in town or only run short distances, use Bardahl Turbo cleaner every 5,000 km or once a year. If you often drive on highways, use Bardahl Turbo cleaner every 10,000 km or once a year. It is recommended to drive occasionally at a lower engine rpm.
The best practice is to start-off after idling for 10-15 seconds and be gradual on the accelerator pedal. The engine will reach operating temperatures faster this way rather than idling. This is what I have been following on all my cars irrespective of fuel type and whether NA or turbocharged.
As air temperature increases the density of the air, and the amount of oxygen it holds, decreases. This means that the turbocharger has to work harder, spin faster and compress more air to produce the same amount of boost it would at lower temperatures.
This thins the oil, enabling it to run more freely and lubricate the moving parts of your engine. Oil takes longer than engine coolant to heat up – so wait at least 10 minutes after your coolant has reached optimum temperature before putting your right foot down.
Turbo whistle is the sound of the compressor inside the turbocharger speeding up (also known as 'spooling up', which is why it kicks in at the boost threshold (when the turbo starts to kick in) as you accelerate up the rev range.
You can overwork a turbo earlier in your rpm range than you can later on. You can shut the gates at 6,500 rpm and it will still work OK. As you rev it out past that, your boost will drop and the backpressure will go up, because the turbo basically becomes like a banana in the tailpipe.
In simple terms, an explosive failure of one or more turbocharger wheels happens when a rapidly spinning compressor or turbine wheel cannot hold itself together against the combined effects of very high temperatures and enormous centrifugal forces.
Warm Up the Engine
Engine oil thickens when it's cold, meaning that it doesn't flow as freely around the engine bay. This means that until the oil has warmed and thinned, moving parts are at an increased risk of wear and tear – and this is especially true of turbos.
Switching off when the engine is very hot stops the circulation of oil. The layer of oil around the turbocharger bearings stop flowing and literally gets “burnt”. The black sludge that forms is similar to what you find on a burnt frying pan. That is not good for any engine.