Start by stripping off what you can (as described above), then seal the wood with a water-thin mix of de-waxed shellac and alcohol. Saturate the wood with the solution and wipe it off. Let it dry for 2 hours. Then switch to a 100 percent pigmented stain, such as Varathane (most stains are a mix of dye and pigment).
But good news – using the wrong wood stain color can be fixed! The easiest thing to do when you don't like your wood stain color is to grab a darker stain, and apply it on top of the initial stain job. If you don't want a darker shade, sanding down the piece and re-staining is also an option.
To darken stained wood, you can clean and lightly sand the surface of your wood project (this is mainly to remove the finish), and then apply the new darker stain to the surface. The new stain will need to dry for several hours before applying a second coat. Although, second coats aren't always necessary.
PolyShades stain and polyurethane also allows you to easily change the color of your currently stained or varnished wood without stripping. Over old varnish you can change the color without removing the old finish or hiding the grain.
Staining over stain is easy and works beautifully if you're applying a dark stain over a lighter stain on raw wood. This rule applies to oil-based stains, water-based stains, and gel stains. 2. You can mix 2 or more stains together to make DIY custom stains.
With dye stains, you can usually bleach out most of the color using household bleach or swimming-pool bleach. It won't be possible to remove all the color, however, without many applications, sanding between each.
To lighten already-applied wood stain, first try turpentine, mineral spirits or household bleach. Apply firmly and evenly along the grain.
The ideal way to fix a wood stain mistake is to sand the piece down to bare wood, and re-stain. However, this is time-consuming. Applying another layer of stain, painting the piece, or evening the piece with gel stain are other methods that could produce a satisfactory result.
Remove wood stain with bleach
To bleach out a dye stain from raw wood, apply a chlorine bleach solution. This should remove most dye-based stains but will not lighten the wood itself. If you are undertaking a refinishing project then Chlorine bleach will also remove old dye but lightly scuff-sand it first.
Many, probably most, store-bought stains are made with both dye and pigment. If wood stained with these stains is exposed to sunlight or fluorescent light for a while, the dye color will fade away, but the pigment color will remain.
Apply a second coat of stain after the first has dried fully. This will usually produce a darker coloring, but it adds a step to the process and slows production. Substitute a glaze or gel stain for the liquid stain. Glazes and gel stains usually contain a higher ratio of pigment.
Good news, you can stain wood without sanding the old finish off! But you'll still have to do some prep to make the new gel stain bond properly with the old stain. Start by always cleaning the old finish with a good cleaner and degreaser, like TSP. Be sure to rinse all of that cleaner off before moving on.
Stains lighten as they dry, then return to their damp color when a finish is applied. So the quick method of seeing the color you'll get with the finish applied is to look at the stain while it is still damp.
Use Steel Wool to Lighten Stained Wood
Steel wool is a viable option to lighten wood without sanding. Start by dampening your 0000 steel wool in warm water. Run the steel wool along the grain of your wood to avoid scratching it.
Any excess stain will redissolve and come off, leaving only the stain that penetrated into the wood. If almost all the stain comes off when you wipe it, the surface probably wasn't sanded enough.
White Vinegar
Even though vinegar is a natural, safe cleaner and disinfectant, the acidic formula is also tough on stains and safe for wood. Soak some paper towels in white vinegar and layer them over the stain. Let the soaked towels sit for about 30 minutes to penetrate the stain.
Vinegar and baking soda Make a paste with equal parts of vinegar and baking soda. Put some paste on a clean cloth, and rub it on the stain until the stain disappears from the wood. After the dye is out, wipe the area with warm water [source: Martha Stewart].
Yes, you may apply stain over an already existing stain on the wood. This process is a fairly easy one as long as all the tools are available. The good thing about a staining project is that you have control over the resulting wood tones. It is easier to apply a darker wood stain than a lighter one.
When first applied, window tint may appear darker than anticipated. However, as it cures and dries the film will lighten slightly. If after some time your tint still looks wet with no prospect of drying or curing in sight, do not hesitate to reach out to a professional tinting shop for assistance.
Sanding does help to lighten wood in many cases, but this only applies to surface soil or grime, and even then only if the discoloration has not penetrated very deeply. In addition, heavy sanding is not always practical. It may result in changing the contours of the piece, or in removing more wood than is advisable.
Have you ever stained a wood piece, only to find the wood stain was significantly darker than you expected it to be? Well, there's a way around that. Wood stain can be diluted with minerals spirits, water, or lacquer thinner, depending on the type of stain.
To get rid of the excess stain now, take a cloth dampened with mineral spirits and use that to scrub down the piece. This should remove the excess stain. Alternatively, apply another coat of stain, wait a couple of minutes for it to soften up the old, tacky, excess stain, then take a cloth and rub away the excess.
Applying a second coat of stain to change the color is something you might try once, but the chances of success are not very good. A second coat of stain can cause other issues like peeling of the top coat(s).