Yes, retinol can temporarily make under-eye wrinkles look worse by causing dryness and irritation, especially when first starting or if used incorrectly on the thin skin, but this is usually temporary dehydration, and with proper use (slow introduction, moisturizer, SPF), it eventually improves wrinkles by boosting collagen and cell turnover, making skin firmer and smoother long-term.
Dry skin exaggerates wrinkles, making them look deeper. Retinoids can increase dryness initially, worsening the appearance of fine lines.
The skin around your eyes loses about 1% of its collagen each year starting in your 30s, making it more prone to fine lines and wrinkles. Factors like sun exposure (responsible for 80% of premature aging signs), repetitive facial expressions, and lifestyle choices all contribute to these unwanted lines.
Retinol promotes collagen production, which smooths out fine lines and reduces the appearance of wrinkles, while also firming up your under-eye skin. 2. Brightening of Dark Circles: By enhancing cell turnover, retinol can diminish the appearance of dark circles, leading to a brighter, more refreshed look.
Increase inflammation – Irritated skin around the eyes can worsen redness and sensitivity. Affect the meibomian glands – These tiny glands produce the oil layer of tears, and retinol use may contribute to their dysfunction, worsening meibomian gland dysfunction (MGD) and dry eye disease.
The Retinol 1-2-3 Method is a gradual skin-adapting technique for beginners: use retinol once a week for the first week, twice a week for the second week, and three times a week for the third week, then work up to every other night or nightly as your skin tolerates it, minimizing irritation and building tolerance to the active ingredient. This "low and slow" approach helps avoid dryness, redness, and peeling (retinization) by letting skin adjust before increasing frequency.
What side effects can occur with retinol? In addition to initial worsening, classic reactions such as redness, flaking, or increased sensitivity to light may occur. These effects occur particularly when used incorrectly or in excessive doses.
🔥 Retinol Tips: If you are starting off with a retinol, make sure not to use it around your mouth because this area is the “kiss of death”. Your skin will get irritated and flaky, and although you may feel smooth in the short term —inflammation is the worst thing that you can do to your skin in the long run.
Koreans use gentle, effective alternatives to retinol like Bakuchiol, Peptides, Ginseng, Adenosine, and antioxidants (Vitamin C, Green Tea), focusing on hydration (Hyaluronic Acid) and barrier support (Squalane, Snail Mucin) to achieve anti-aging results without irritation. These ingredients boost collagen, improve firmness, and smooth texture, making them great for sensitive skin or those avoiding retinoids.
While no treatment can stop time, under-eye wrinkles can absolutely be softened, improved, and even reversed with the right care. Starting with small daily habits and combining them with professional treatment—like under-eye fillers—can bring noticeable and lasting results.
Slow skin cell production, thinning skin layers and a lack of collagen proteins causes wrinkles to form on your skin. Collagen is a protein within your body that gives your skin structure. It provides stretchiness or elasticity so you can move easily.
How to Stimulate Collagen Production Under Eyes
The truth is, creasing can happen for a number of reasons. Maybe your skin is naturally dry, and your concealer clings to rough patches. Maybe your formula is too thick, or you're using too much product. Even the way you prep your skin and set your makeup can make or break your look.
Because retinoids help your skin make more collagen, they soften wrinkles and fine lines. They also stimulate new blood vessels, which can give your skin a rosy color. Retinoids also help fade age spots and smooth rough patches.
However, because the skin around the eyes is particularly thin and sensitive, tretinoin can cause irritation and dryness and these effects can make existing wrinkles appear more pronounced.
Bakuchiol is known as a plant-based retinol alternative. It is an oil harvested from an Indian plant called babshi and is known to provide many of the same benefits as retinol. Just like retinol, bakuchiol promotes collagen production to promote smooth, younger-looking skin.
The ingredient that works up to 11 times faster than retinol is Retinal (also known as retinaldehyde), a more direct form of Vitamin A that requires fewer conversion steps in the skin to become active retinoic acid, leading to quicker anti-aging and skin-smoothing results, making it ideal for experienced users.
Because retinoids can cause skin dryness and irritation, doctors often recommend using them only every other day at first and then gradually working up to nightly applications. Wear a sunscreen during the day because retinoids increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight.
Koreans view skincare as a disciplined investment rather than a quick fix. This cultural emphasis on regular skincare maintenance is reflected in the diligent use of skincare products and routines over the years, contributing significantly to fewer wrinkles and healthier skin.
By the end of this year, the EU will restrict retinol concentration in topical products due to concerns that higher concentrations could lead to vitamin A toxicity. Restrictions will be more stringent for body products because a larger treatment area means a higher chance of too much vitamin A entering the bloodstream.
We recommend following the 1-2-3 rule: apply retinol once a week for one week, twice a week for two weeks, three times for three weeks, then move towards every second night if there are no side effects happening. If you do experience flaking, redness or sensitivity, simply move back to a lower frequency for a week.
Should you use retinol under your eyes? Yes, definitely. While it is true that retinol – a form of vitamin A – is a powerful ingredient and the skin under your eyes is delicate, there's no reason why you should miss out on the amazing benefits of retinol.
According to dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon Dr. Lauren Moy, some peeling and mild redness is normal, but it shouldn't be much more than that. “If your skin becomes painful, red, itching, or burning and irritated, it's too much,” she says.